DISCLAIMER: These steps are for informational purposes only. If you break your device, I’m not responsible. If you don’t agree, hit the back button. Thanks, The Management! 😎👍
Practice safe static protection. There are lots of pics and tips for installing the new LCD. Click on a pic, and at the bottom you will see a link for full size to get even more detail. Then magnify to full size. The pics and tips page scrolls well with a phone or any device in wide mode. Most will find this to be a bit overkill but hopefully should answer any questions that may come up. A picture is always worth a thousand words.
‼WARNING: PLASTIC SCREW HOLE STATIC CHARGED FLAKES MAY CAUSE MADNESS‼
Use something similar to a makeup powder brush works.
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New Microvision LCD with optional new pink zebra connector. The pink zebra connector is mentioned later in the install guide. It’s now a good idea to swap it out. There is more evidence from many installs that the leaky LCD fluid damages the brown/black zebra connector. 
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!! Remove game cartridge first before disassembly or cartridge can jam inside case and cause damage to the large mainboard to cartridge connector!! Flip MV over with paddle wheel hanging over edge. Remove battery, cover and six screws. -
Place case back aside. Note wiring placement in the troughs. Take pics. -
Notes: Power switch is flat over brown pin. Note wire routing. -
Brown support pin through middle of power switch. I’ve run into 2 switches with oxidized contacts causing no power. To clean, Remove wiring, remove small PCB, bend back 4 metal crimp tabs holding switch together. Clean all contacts with metal polish and isopropanol. -
Another pic of the brown stop pin supporting power switch. If this is broken. Epoxy another one. This supports the switch and will just push in. The factory routed the wiring wrong and put stress on this brown stop pin. -
Other side of switch shows wire routing. -
Move paddle wheel potentiometer to side. Note plate is flush. -
Slide out keypad / paddle wheel plate. (whatever it’s called🤔) -
Note: piezo speaker placement and wire routing. -
Move switch and piezo to side. Piezo wires are fragile. Check piezo solder connections. Resolder if frayed or popped off the piezo. The piezo has a thin metal layer on top. Solder quickly or metal layer will burn away. -
Note: keypad is installed flush so plate will be flush. -
Push keypad slightly out from underside. Keypad could be stuck from adhesive. -
Remove mainboard and accessories. Put aside case parts. -
Note: This mainboard to cartridge connector pops out easily and installs only one way. Makes sure all pins are clean. Use isopropyl and Qtip if needed. Take a pic. -
This came out of a unit that would not power on. The contacts were heavily oxidized and needed a serious cleaning. Simichrome metal polish and a Dremel nylon cup soft brush works great. -
Fix the glitchy paddle wheel pot. Fold back the 4 tabs and clean with 91% isopropyl. Polish with simichrome. Then apply some switch lube with graphite mixed. -
Polished with simichrome. -
Solder the earlier mainboard battery clips. The later units had soldered battery clips. -
Cleaning with a flux soaked Qtip and solder to clear the corrosive oxidation layer works great. Add flux-solder-flux clean-solder-apply flux reheat-repeat. -
Check for other cold solder joints and frayed wires. The solder joint to the left of the battery clip is the main power feed. It was a cold joint with the frayed wire wiggling in the thru hole. -
With cases aside, remove 4 screws holding LCD tray. Make sure these caps are not leaking. The larger 33uf can cause display issues. It should have about 16M ohm resistance in circuit. I’ve had a failing 33uf cap cause a flashing display and bad response from the contrast knob. It had very low resistance in circuit. I pulled it out and it read 3k pF! -
Screws removed. LCD tray should fall down. The 2 clear alignment pins might be tight. -
Front alignment pin. These clear alignment pins might need a gentle push down for the LCD tray to pop out. -
Rear alignment pin. Alignment pins might be stuck. Watch for paperboard shims at large zebra connector. They must be reused for warped LCD trays. Display issues can result if not re-installed. Sometimes masking tape strips were used. -
Original LCD components. These are just clinging to the mainboard. Note zebra connectors orientation. Remove all LCD parts. -
Some later mainboards might have a small clear silicone contact button to the right above the display. This connects power when a cartridge is installed. It fits into the small hole in the LCD tray if equipped. Some units have the hole in the LCD tray but no button. Some have a solder blob shorting the PCB pads on the mainboard thus deleting the button. Picture of the solder blob mainboard. -
Remove front polarizer sheet. This will not be needed. Constantly clean static flakes with a makeup powder brush. Watch for paperboard shims under large zebra connector. They must be reused for warped LCD trays. Display issues can result if not in place. Sometimes factory masking tape strips were applied under the large zebra to level this area for good contact to the LCD contact pads. -
Original LCD components. The green foam will be reused. On some units, the green foam and rear polarizer / reflector sheet are glued together, separate by softening adhesive with isopropyl and a Qtip. -
Original LCD, front polarizer and rear polarizer / reflector are not used with the new LCD. Those parts are already permanently attached to the new LCD. -
New LCD faceup and original zebra connectors with green foam. Remove new LCD protective cling sheets on both sides. They peel off very easily. ❗Don’t peel off the polarizers❗ Clean flakes with powder brush. -
These are 3 original types of the straight plus a new pink zebra connectors. The lower (2) are the latest. The top is the new pink/black zebra. Use the pink zebra to replace these 3 types. It is a fraction of a milimeter taller. Some of the original zebras may become damaged from the original leaky LCD fluid. If your having display issues contact me here or on FB messenger. -
Clean flakes from zebra connectors. Flakes can cause display issues. Verify the large zebra connector sits flat inside tray. The factory used masking tape strips or paperboard strips to level the warped area. 3mm X 34mm painters tape strips will be needed to compensate for tray warpage. Left large zebra installs only one way; black lines facing up. Top thin 2 section zebra must be installed black lines inward and stay centered at the above wall to make contact with LCD pads. There is a thicker 3 section thin zebra with black lines in the middle. -
… use a Q-tip to check how well the dark conductive strips are in contact. The large Zebra connector needs to make good contact with the LCD from under the glass. Gently press down on the LCD with Q-tip going across to see these LCD contact areas under the glass. This is like pressing your face to a glass window, from the other side of the window, you can see where you skin touches and where it doesn’t. You want all of the black strips showing even contact across the glass LCD contacts. Use the glare of a light to see the LCD contacts better… -
…if it appears to have less contact in the middle, the tray is excessively warped. Remove the LCD and zebra and add a second shorter 3mm x 22mm length strip, centered, to fill the low spot in the warped LCD tray where the large zebra sits. Add that strip centered to the lower ledge. That will allow the zebra connector to have even pressure across the LCD contacts. Add the zebra and LCD and test again. This will fix displays issues with missing or shimmering vertical lines in the middle of the display. Some LCD trays are warped more that others affecting this zebra connector. You can see the warp in the tray by viewing line of sight along the length where the large zebra sits. The factory used a couple of methods to fix this problem. Adding tan masking tape strips. Another was thin paperboard strips you may have noticed mysteriously falling out when disassembled. -
This is a pic of the tape required for the backlit install. But it demonstrates using the painters tape to elevate the zebra connector. -
Cut 3mm X 22mm strips. Start with a shorter strip of 21mm on the lower ledge to level this warped area. -
Clean flakes with powder brush. Peel off the protective cling sheets on each side of this LCD. Not removing these can change the spacing and potentially cause display issues. They are a little tricky to find a corner to peel but they are there. Place new LCD facedown , shiny side up, in LCD tray with edges connecting zebra connectors. Note LCD connector pads in the glare of a light. Left side facing down in tray and the top side facing up connected to the zebra connectors. -
Place original green foam with old adhesive facing up so it doesn’t stick to the LCD. Add the foam generally centered. -
Lay mainboard straight down onto LCD tray aligning left pin first taking care not to bump LCD tray. -
Left LCD tray alignment pin popping through mainboard. -
Pickup assembly holding mainboard and LCD tray together to align right alignment pin. -
The alignment pins are lined up while still holding parts together. -
Carefully flip it around to check LCD alignment. Black LCD edge line to tray line alignment should be in parallel. Adjust if necessary. This will keep the blocks in blockbuster straight. -
Verify left zebra connector. While lightly holding together, use a small tool to gently push zebra connector closer to LCD for the best possible connection. Careful not to topple that zebra as it will fail to make a connection to the LCD pads. Verify it is still centered! Also adjust LCD if needed. The zebra alignment can fix display issues. -
Install 4 screws to hold LCD tray in place. These are self tapping screws! 🔥Follow existing threads🔥 Drop screw into hole, turn CCW in loosen direction until threads align with bump. Then tighten CW until stop. ⚡DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN⚡ These screws apply needed pressure for good zebra contact. Stripped screws holes will lead to display issues. -
Ready for install. -
Lay mainboard assembly into front case. Large mainboard to cartridge connector needs to be pushed to outer edge so mainboard lays flat. -
Make sure the solder joints are clear of the yellow highlighted raised wall area on install. The piezo needs full contact with this ledge for optimal sound. 👍 Careful with these wires as the middle wire can pop off easily. -
Paddle wheel knob in place. Piezo installed correctly between brown pins and wire routed between case screw posts. These components like to pop out of place interfering with final assembly. -
Install power switch following previous disassembly wire routing notes. Install keypad / paddle wheel plate. This lays flat with 4 right brown piezo speaker pins just about flush. -
Install paddle wheel potentiometer and power switch. Follow routing notes and pics. Add your battery placement card if you have one. -
Battery placement placard. These were installed in the single battery units. -
print it out. -
Add 6 screws. Rotate screws CCW to feel thread alignment bump then screw drops down. The threads have aligned at that point. Then tighten CW. Do not overtighten as this will strip out the plastic threads. Case should align like this with components in correct positions. -
Switch should barely poke out. Case is straight. -
Power switch retainer pin repair. Snip off the broken brown roundish post. The white strip is 4.8mm wide to fit between the switch leads. It hasn’t been trimmed to height yet. -
Switch retainer pin repaired and trimmed to proper height. The 2 brown retainer posts were trimmed but this set the switch out farther 1mm. The next repair the white repair piece was trimmed to tightly fit the power switch. -
The white repair post was trimmed back slightly to fit the switch tight. -
Battery contacts in the correct position. -
Best location to allow battery to snap in place. -
Battery installs flat and level. -
Snapped in… add battery cover. -
Time for glory! Power on. Do you see the 7 ST? Press GO! -
Hit GO again. -
Great work! Play a game! Press GO one more time to serve the ball. Block alignment issues can be adjusted with above steps. Ahhh, those irritating plastic screw hole flakes!! Use the powder brush.